Wadi Rum is a huge natural playground but because it is a protected area there are limitations to what can be done and of course an entrance fee is payable. While visitors can do their own thing it is much safer and usually more fun to hire a registered guide or take one of the many tours available.
There is one road into Rum village. That branches off the main Desert Highway from Amman to Aqaba and is clearly signposted. There’s a visitors centre by the road before you reach Rum Village. It has a car park, tourist information centre and restaurant. This is where to pay your entrance fee and book a tour. It is open each day from 7am to 10pm.
There’s an almost limitless range of activities ranging from short trips into the desert by SUV or camel to lengthy expeditions lasting several days. It’s best to have reservations made several days in advance to be sure of getting your chosen guide. Otherwise you buy a ticket from the office and get allocated the next driver or camel boy in the line.
Climbers are attracted to Wadi Rum because of the number and quality of scrambles and serious climbs particularly Jebel Rum the highest mountain in the region. Walkers can spend days following trails across the desert, through the granite and sandstone ridges and over sand dunes. One of the best publications for anyone interested in walking and climbing is Di Taylor and Tony Howard’s Cicerone Guide Jordan Walks, Treks, Caves, Climbs, Canyons.
Bedouin of the Humeitat and Mzanah tribes live in Wadi Rum. While many have moved into concrete block houses in Rum village some still live deep in the desert in tents made from goats hair. They make their living by raising sheep, goats and camels, wear traditional dress and observe century’s old customs. Hospitality is one of these ancient traditions and there is not a better honour when travelling in the desert than being invited into a tent for a glass of cardamom flavoured coffee, sweet, mint, tea or to share a meal.
There are a lot of companies offering tours of Wadi Rum but only one is actually based there. Saleem Ali Lavi and his brothers are a local Bedouin family. They own and run Jordan Tracks. As well as offering a full range of tours they provide walking and climbing guides and operate a camp site deep in the desert where visitors can stay overnight in a traditional Bedouin tent and sample local food and music.
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